
Double trouble 😉 a pair of whip coral goby

Scuba Diving Ao Nang
To make it simple it is a waterproof watch either on your wrist or in a console of your High pressure hose. A Dive Computer shows you your actual depth, maximum depth reached, time and no decompression limit. The most important information in Scuba Diving. However many Dive Computers can show more for example ascend rate, water temperature, nitrogen saturation and many more.
Buying a Dive Computer can be overwhelming due to so many are out there. Especially as a beginner diver it’s hard to choose the right one. Often there are terms included which are yet not relevant for you or never will be in the future. If you can recognize yourself with this then that’s why I’m here and write this guide for you!
⛔ DANGERS: Read the complete manual which comes with each Computer and understand the Dive Computer otherwise it can lead to serious injuries.
⚠️ WARNING: Dive Computers are intended for use by recreational divers who have successfully completed an internationally recognized course in scuba diving.
Before buying a Dive Computer it makes sense to know how a Dive Table works as it makes it easier to understand how a Computer works.
A Dive Computer makes your dive easier and more comfortable. You can enjoy your dive more while concentrating on the Marine Life rather than on your depth gauge and time. It will give you a better peace of mind. However it still is IMPORTANT to check your Dive Computer frequently to not exceed your No Decompression Limit and especially not to run out of air!
Nitrogen (N2) levels in your body build up while diving. Long and deep dives build up (saturate) more N2 and give you less time hence you can’t stay too long at deeper depth so you must check your decompression limit more frequently!!! Some Computer show your N2 level after a dive with some bars, desaturation time as well as no fly time.
No Decompression limit is the time in which you can ascend to the surface without stopping. If this time is exceeded, stops must be made when ascending at certain depth for certain minutes.
A multigas dive computer has functions and settings for other mixed gases such as Nitrox and Trimix. Many dive computers nowadays have the Nitrox function integrated.
The Display should be straight forward and easy to read. The Contrast should be high, important Data should be displayed in big numbers as for example the depth and no decompression limit so should be the max depth and time.
Most computers have a button for a display background light in case of cave or night diving as you can read it easier than pointing your torch on it.
The Logbook is a function on your computer as it logs all your diving profile. Many Computer nowadays can display a graphic with your profile after the dive or you can hook them up to your computer and read them out into a program. Some even work with Bluetooth or WiFi and you can transmit your Dive data easily.
Each Computer has it’s own characteristics and has slight differences in settings and readability. Always read the instructions before using and make sure you understand the manual otherwise ask a professional what they mean.
It’s great to be able to change the empty Battery on your Dive Computer by yourself. However, one should be careful with changing the battery. Firstly because the O-ring could leak and secondly you can lose the waranty on the Computer. Read the instructions carefully.
But imagine if you go on your desperately needed Dive Holiday you’ll go up to your loft check your dive gear a day before your flight and the Battery of your Dive Computer is empty. What to do now if it isn’t user replaceable?
Sending them in will take a a few days until it’s back and if you go to a remote place or a travel destination where there is no reliable Dive Computer dealer available…
If you need to switch data display on your dive you want to have big enough button especially if you have to wear diving gloves. Usually in normal recreational diving you don’t have to switch data displays underwater that might be different in technical diving with multiple gases.
Some of the Computers feature 4 buttons which i think is the easiest way to move around and adjust the settings. But of course there is a 3x higher possibility of breaking or leaking compare to a one button computer which is hard in adjusting settings.
Nowadays Dive Computers can upgrade their firmware. Often possible to do it yourself so you might want to look out for a software upgrade ability. But if you don’t have that option the Dealer will mostly do it for free but you have to send it in.
Mineral Glass: These are common on most mid-range watches. They are a little more expensive than plastic or acrylic crystals but are significantly more scratch resistant. They are made of glass. Almost all Mineral Glass Watch Crystals nowadays are “Tempered” Mineral Glass. This just means that the surface of the glass is “heat-tempered” (heated to a high temperature), giving the surface of the glass increased scratch resistance and making it less likely to “splinter”. If a mineral crystal is scratched or chipped, then it cannot be polished and “repaired”, it needs to be replaced.
Way more expensive are the Synthetic Sapphire crystal or “glass” it is actually not glass at all. It is a very hard, transparent material made of crystallizing pure aluminum oxide at very high temperatures. it measures 9 on the Mohs Scale while only the Diamond is a pure 10. So the sapphire is very hard to scratch or chip but not impossible.
As there are different types of scuba diving there are different types of Dive Computers.
Some Computer include a Digital Compass. Not very easy to read though especially on a small wrist dive computer.
The ascend rate is very important to scuba divers as it should not exceed 10-18m / Minute depending on the Organization standards you learned with. The computer shows the ascent rate in m / min and warns you acoustically on some computers with vibrations or with different colored LEDs if you ascent too fast. Mostly it starts the acoustic warning sound if your ascend rate is faster than 12m/min. NEVER exceed your max ascend rate in can lead to serious health problems like Decompression Sickness!
Some Computer feature more than one mode for example one computer can feature
Make sure you set the correct mode for your dive.
⚠️ Setting the wrong mode can harm you!
Most of you won’t be allowed to do decompression dives, however it is important to know if you accidentally over exceed your no decompression limit and run into a decompression dive!
⚠️ Know what the numbers on your computer mean and make sure you follow them on your dive as you can also here seriously harm yourself if you miss desaturation stops.
The Geo 4.0 is aimed at beginner divers, its a very simple and affordable Computer but has everything a novice Diver needs.
The Vyper is a Recreational wrist Computer with a bigger Display. If you are not a fan of the small watch Displays and rather prefer something bigger, than this would be the better choice.
This Computer is great for adjust your settings due to it’s easy App and Bluetooth connection. Using your smartphone, tablet, or laptop with the DiverLog+ app (available for iOS and Android) to wirelessly interact with your i470TC via the latest Bluetooth Smart technology.
This is a great computer and easily adjustable. At the push of a button, you can sync with the Deepblu App, allowing you to effortlessly change settings or review your Dive Log after surfacing.
This computer is aimed at advanced divers who are also interested in multi-gas diving such as trimix and rebreather or who want to make their way towards Technical Diving.
To double secure your Dive Computer you might want to have a Wrist Lanyard.
This was my Equipment Guide and list of the Top10 Best Dive Computer in 2020! I hope you enjoyed the article. Please share this artical with on your social platforms website or leave us a Comment.
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Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
Scuba Diving Torches or also called Flashlights, are waterproof built torches who can illuminate the underwater world.
As you go deeper Water becomes darker due to less sunlight reaching the lower depth as light gets reflected by particles. So for a diver it’s a good Idea to own a proper underwater torch.
Not only for deep diving but also for small crevices and caves where usually a lot of Marine Life is hiding. Also if you like Night dives its great to have your own scuba diving torch. You know how it works and how bright it is.
The lumen (Latin for light, lamp) is the SI unit of luminous flux. So it indicates how much light a lamp emits per unit of time.
To determine the lumen you will need in a Scuba Diving torch is kind of easy; the more the better. However the lumen information on a description of a flashlight is important, but manufacturers often use them as a marketing tool and exaggerate this number.
So sometimes it is better to rather look for built quality and materials used and researching other pages to determine different lumen information of the torch you are looking to buy.
Depending if you need a torch for illuminating a video which needs a wider flood angle or just for illuminating crevices, holes and caves which will need a a smaller angle of beam light. Average beam angle range between 12 to 75 degrees.
The lumen should not be confused with the lux. Lux is the unit of illuminance that indicates how much light per unit of time per unit of area.
As far as the torch distance range is concerned, the LUX number is a decisive value. This determines the luminosity for a specified distance.
If the Torch has a low LUX value and at the same time has a high number of lumen, this means that the torch emits light more broadly, i. H. has a strong scattering effect (flooder torch). These kind of scuba diving torches are particularly suitable for Video lightning.
If the torch has a high LUX value with a high number of lumen at the same time, then one speaks of so-called thrower torches. These are characterized by the fact that they bundle the light beam very strongly and thus achieve a high distance beam range. They are particularly suitable for recognizing details over long distances and are better for scuba diving if you want to illuminate the small spaces, crevices and caves.
What type of LED is used in torches?
Virtually all scuba diving torches made today use an XM-L LED. This LED produces a full-flood beam, with less throw than the XP-G. Total lumen output for the original XM-L peaked at near 700. Differences in the T6 and U2 flux bins include higher brightness. All LED scuba diving torches with a light output of over 2000 lumen fall into the category of comparing it with daylight.
The light beam is always generated with several high-performance LEDs such as CREE XP-L V6, CREE XM-L2 or CREE XHP70.
An average 100 lumen torch is able to provide around 5 -10 hours runtime using 2x AA battery. This amount of lumen is technically enough for urban and suburban use but probably not for scuba diving. In Scuba Diving you’ll need at least 700+ Lumen to get anything out of your purchase.
You should have a look at the actual working time of a scuba diving torch. The maximum working time is always given for the lowest set light intensity.
At maximum power, the working time is multiple times shorter.
This also depends on the Type of Battery the maximum charge capacity of the battery as well as the number of LEDs and the LED type.
The scuba diving torches produce heat when on, and the heat comes from the associated core of the LED bulb. The greater the power consumption of the LED light and or the more LED’s, the more heat appears. Most of them have an overheating switch built in but underwater due to the good heat dissipation of water the torches usually never overheat. Depending on the power of your LED’s this might be a different story if you turn them on and use it as a normal torch on land.
Look for Marine grade Aluminum in scuba diving torches, it not only last longer than plastic but it also dissipates the heat much better which also extends the life of the LED bulb as it doesn’t become to hot.
A robust and shock-proof material prevents defects if the lamp falls. In addition, particularly robust flashlights are ideal for tactical purposes in self-defense.
It’s better to have a torch with a front Glass rather than Plastic. Plastic can scratch easily which then quickly affects the luminosity of your Scuba Diving Torch
In Scuba Diving it’s always important not to have to big appliances. However a torch with good Batteries and a few good LED’s should fit in your BCD Pocket to store it away if not needed and not dangling around. The flashlight should be easy and intuitive to use.
The buttons and controls should also not be too small and still be operable with gloves.
Under no circumstances should batteries with too low or too high voltage or amperage be used, otherwise the LED’s could be damaged and also not being able to use up their maximum illumination capacity.
Many different Batteries are used in scuba diving torches. Make sure you not only have the correct Battery but also the correct charger for your rechargeable Batteries.
Rechargeable Batteries are the “better” Batteries for the environment due to less toxic rubbish.
Nowadays, many scuba diving torches no longer have just one mode: on or off, but offer multiple settings for dimming of different brightness, have an SOS mode and/or a strobe mode (flash function) and possibly even changeable colors.
For example most fish can’t see the color spectrum red. If you do like night dives you can have scuba diving torches with UV-LED’s which brings out the bio-luminescence in Corals and Fish.
The IPX value (International Protection) indicates the water resistance of a torch. The classification goes from IPX0 to IPX9:
Often scuba Diving torches are rated to around 60-100m in the description depth without stating the IPX rating.
Despite great care in our research, we cannot accept any liability for the information. Technical specifications are specifications by manufacturer.
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
This is my choice as a rental Torch for the Dive Center it works great and is not overly expensive
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
This is another choice as a rental Torch for the Dive Center it works great and is not overly expensive
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
This was my Equipment and buying guide and my list of the Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020! I hope you enjoyed it and if you did so and don’t want to miss any of my next Equipment guides sign up for the Newsletter here.
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
of my Top 10 best Scuba Diving Torches in 2020
An underwater Camera is a Camera you can take with you for Scuba Diving or any other outdoor sport for that matter. Most of them are rated to -30m (100ft) of depth. Some come with and some come without underwater housings.
Nowadays many Action Underwater Cameras film in up to 4K and come with an underwater housing. That’s one reason that nowadays you might not need the big rig and spend thousands of your hard earned money.
Sure there are disadvantages on an action camera compare to the big rig DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras, comparing value and price sometimes an action Camera will do a good job and it is compact.
The emphasis lays on Compact as the small cameras fit in every pants are light and tough.
Due to the Wideangle lenses of the action underwater cameras the minimum object distance (MOD) is very high. MOD is the shortest working distance between the foremost front of the lens and the motive which can still be focused using the focus ring or the automatic focus of the lens. Which means that Action Cameras with their Wideangle lenses have to stay farther away from the motive to make sure the motive stays sharp.
There are some macro and magnification lenses available.
There are Underwater Cameras on the Market which are rated to 30m of depth and not using a housing as for example the Nikon W300 but it also is more expensive than an Action Camera.
Read carefully whats included in the Package! As i mentioned earlier not all Cameras come with a housing and will probably not be rated to the same depth as the ones with housing.
You’ll need a Class 10 or higher micro SD card mostly between 8GB-64GB Some do not support more than 64GB Cards. Please read instructions of the Camera.
One of the latest and fastest Micro SD Cards available on the Market as of 2020 is the Extreme microSDXC UHS-I Memory Card – C10, U3, V30, 4K, A2. This card can record 4k Videos on to your Camera and comes with an SD-Card Adapter.
Underwater Camera Housings for DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras start at around 1500,- US$ and go up to 5000,- US$.
Compact Underwater Camera Housings starting at around 300,- US$ and can go up to 2000,- US$.
If you already own a Camera and you’d like to get an underwater housing for it, it might be possible but you need to get the correct housing for your type of camera, otherwise the Buttons on the outside of the housing might not match the buttons on your camera and you are not able to use the Camera inside the housing.
You need to own a very known brand camera to find a housing. If you own an exotic one you might not find the correct housing for it.
More and more you can see underwater Housings for Mobile Phones but again you need to make sure that the underwater housing matches and fits your Mobile Phone.
There is a Smart housing from Weefine available for both iPhone and Android Users which fits many Phones and an Underwater App which you install on your phone.
Camera Tray with handles to stabilize your video underwater is also a good Idea to have. As you can also attach your video lights or underwater strobes to it. Light underwater is very important.
Advantage / Disadvantage | Action Camera | DSLR big Rig |
---|---|---|
Small | ✔️ | ❌ |
Light | ✔️ | ❌ |
Tough | ✔️ | ❌ |
Zoom | ❌✔️ | ❌✔️ |
Maintenance | very little | A lot |
Easy to use | ✔️ | ❌ |
Takes good Photos | ❌ | ✔️ |
4K Video | ❌✔️ | ❌✔️ |
Can be used in other ways such as Dash Cam | ✔️ | ❌ |
Needs Housing | ❌✔️ | ✔️ |
Handling underwater is easy | ✔️ | ❌ |
Easy transport | ✔️ | ❌ |
Inexpensive | ✔️ | ❌ |
Additional Equipment inexpensive | ✔️ | ❌ |
Easy Traveling | ✔️ | ❌ |
Macro compatibility MOD | ❌ | ✔️ |
Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
So as you can see the advantages of having a big rig are very small. Sure if you would like to compete in Underwater Photography competitions it might be a consideration but the Action Cameras improved so much in the past few years that it might not be necessary for you to get a big Rig.
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
This was my Equipment and buying guide and my list of the Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020! I hope you enjoyed it and if you did so and don’t want to miss any of my next Equipment guides sign up for the Newsletter here.
Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
Top 11 Best Underwater Camera 2020
Controlling your buoyancy underwater is an important skill to master and to achieve positive, neutral or negative buoyancy as a diver to not bump into any corals, fish, rocks, sharks or turtles, and disturb or even worse destroy them. A perfect buoyancy control is essential for a Diver!
There are a few different type of BCD’s on the Market which I will explain here further down but first there are some technical terms on a BCD which are important to know if you’d like to invest in a BCD you’ll know what the description of a BCD actually means.
A scuba BCD is just an air bladder that lets you control your buoyancy underwater by inflating or deflating your BCD. The Bladder are airfilled pockets connected to each other which are surrounding you.
Besides controlling your buoyancy, scuba BCD’s also store your dive accessories, in Pockets with zippers or Velcro as well as D-Rings. Keep your regulators and octopuses organized and prevent them from dangling.
Buckles are made mostly from plastic and keep your BCD where it supposed to be, or make it easier to take it off or put on.
Cummerbund is a Velcro in front of your Belly it keeps the BCD on your back when diving and inflating the BCD so it doesn’t flow off.
The BCD Backplate is mostly made of Plastic due to weight and holds your Tank securely with a strap if properly closed.
Some later BCD’s are weight integrated which means they have specialized pockets for carrying the Lead weights with a fast release mechanism in case of an emergency.
If in case you inflated the BCD with too much air you can pull the string of your Dump Valve and a valve placed on your shoulder will open and will let a lot of air out quickly. Mostly there is one on each shoulder where on the left shoulder its integrated in the inflator hose which you would pull to open it. On your right side it usually is a small button the size of a big marble to pull.
Some BCD’s also have a Dump Valve on the lower right bottom side in case you need to deflate while head over Diving.
These Dump Valves also act as over pressure valve in case the BCD is inflated to heavily.
An Air2 is a fully equipped Regulator which is attached to the end of the Corrugated tube and acts as an inflator/deflator and an emergency regulator in case your main Regulator fails.
Most BCD’s are unisex, meaning they work for both men and women. However, there are a few Lady BCD’s available. Because a women’s cut is narrower at the shoulder and wider at the hips than a mans.
The basic material used in the construction of BCD’s is nylon, or a variation often called. Cordura®, this being the brand name of a company that specializes in tough fabrics made from, among other things, nylon. Some manufacturers may highlight their extra polyurethane (PU) coating, which aids resistance to abrasion.
‘Denier’ is a term which may be more familiar to readers. It is a measure of how densely the fibers of a particular fabric are woven, with the lower end of the scale being less dense – and therefore lighter, but less durable – than the higher end.
This is the most common BCD type for warm water recreational diving. It is also the type that you were probably given to use when you got your scuba diving license. Many Dive Center use them to teach due to reliability and robustness. Also because it’s easier to learn buoyancy control in these type of BCD’s than in a Wing for example.
The air bladder wraps around the diver from the back to the front.
A travel BCD is like a normal diving BCD except more lightweight and smaller to pack.
Nowadays with most airlines charging exponentially excess luggage or reducing their free carry on luggage you are left with leaving some Dive Equipment at home or renting it expensive from the Dive Center but we all know that you’d rather use your own equipment which you are familiar with and know it does fit like a glove.
So now more than ever it’s important to look for light weight BCD’s
Advanced divers might prefer Semi wing BCD’s because it allows for more arm movement and you can remain horizontal underwater.
This is because the air bladder is placed on the back.
The weight is also lighter than a normal style Jacket BCD while it is still equipped with D-Rings, Weight Pockets, and Side Pockets.
The design includes a Metal, Aluminum or Stainless Steel backplate, harness and detachable air bladder surrounding the backplate. This type of BCD originates from technical diving, where divers are using a twinset of two tanks or a rebreather. In recent years, wing-style BCD’s have appeared in single-tank diving and made its way into recreational diving.
Like a jacket Style BCD the shape is still like a sleeveless vest with pockets around the waist but the front is more streamlined because there is no air bladder in the front.
Due to a very small water resistance, low drag reduces the effort needed to move through the water. The less effort, the better our air consumption and the more time we get on our underwater adventure. However the Wing Style is more expensive and has less storage space if at some at all.
The Stabilizing Jacket remains the BCD style choice of experienced and professional divers because of its dynamic control system. Stabilizing Jackets reject the idea of air bladders within BCDs; instead, they use internal air passages that basically embrace the diver and allow air to remain dynamic inside the jacket. This air flows freely to the jacket’s highest point, which allows the diver to basically rotate around a bubble. This adds stability and creates ease of motion for the diver.
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
of my Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
This was my Equipment Guide and list of the Top10 Best BCD in 2020! I hope you enjoyed it and if you did so and don’t want miss any of my next Equipment guides sign up for the Newsletter here.
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
Top 10 Best BCD in 2020
A scuba Diving regulator is a device that lets you breath underwater. It is connected to a high pressurized air tank which you carry on your back and it does downgrade the high pressure comes out of the tank into a breathable intermediate pressure.
I will spare you all the boring technical Details and explanations but there are a few things you’ll need to know before buying a Regulator.
The Membrane and the Piston Regulators.
Piston Regulator are the simple and cheaper Regulators and as long as you only dive in warm Water above 12°C Water temperature these ones are fine. You are able to dive in cold water with a Piston Regulator but it is not recommended.
The general advantage of a piston-based first stage lies in its reliability and reduced maintenance requirements, due to an effective but simpler mechanism with less moving parts. More importantly, no other design can reach the high air delivery rate of a balanced piston controlled first stage.
The Membrane Regulators can be used in warm water but are also for cold water diving even ice diving is possible with these regulators but there are considerably more expensive than Piston Regulators.
Diaphragm-based first stages are environmentally sealed so that water cannot enter the inner mechanism. Bearing in mind that regulators generate temperatures up to minus -30 °C due to the fast moving air and the high pressures involved, it is imperative that sensitive moving metal parts avoid contact with cold water.
Therefore, diaphragm first stages have been the favored choice of cold-water divers.
But it also has higher maintenance cost due to more moving parts inside the regulator.
Many people claim the Membrane Regulators can’t freeze but that’s not true they can but do not freeze as quickly as a piston regulator.
Regulators are on the market since 1942 but didn’t change that much.
DIN and INT is the attachment of the first stage to the Tank valve. The Valve is either a DIN or an INT mount so is the Regulator.
Clearly the DIN version because the O-ring is larger and is screwed into the inside of the valve, making it much less susceptible. Unfortunately, the DIN version is also the less common version.
There are always Adapter available to make sure your regulator fits on the tank no matter what mount.
The Octopus or Alternate Air source is a second 2nd stage on your regulator in case the main Regulator fails or your buddy runs out of air you can easily supply air to your buddy with the AAS and not using your main Regulator.
It is recommended to have the same brand as your first stage.
The Octopus is mostly yellow to be able to be seen easily in an emergency.
There is at least one gauge which is a necessary must! It is the Tank pressure Gauge or submersible pressure gauge (SPG). Some are filled with oil. You can combine them in a console with other gauges like a compass or a dive computer or install them as a single part.
Pressure gauges are different in Imperial showing PSI and Metric showing tank pressure in bar some are showing dual Scala.
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
of my top 11 Best Scuba Diving Regulator 2020
Console with air integrated Dive computer. So instead of a analog submersible pressure gauge you get a digital one with a dive computer integrated.
Scubapro G2 Air integrated Dive Computer
Pressure Gauge, Depth Gauge and Compass all you need for Scuba Diving in one console.
Scubapro 3 Gauge in-Line Console
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
Swim-fins, fins or flippers are worn on the foot and made from rubber or plastic, to aid movement through the water in water sports activities such as swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, body-boarding, body-surfing, knee-boarding, river-boarding, and various other types of Water sports.
Scuba divers, snorkelers etc. use fins to move through water efficiently, as human feet being very small provide relatively poor thrust, especially when the diver is carrying equipment that increases hydrodynamic drag. Very long and mono-fins are used by freedivers as a means of underwater propulsion that does not require high frequency leg movement.
Commercially available swimming fins are made of rubber and / or PVC. For special fins (e.g. monofins, apnea fins) other materials may be used, e.g. Glass fiber or carbon fiber reinforced plastic. Swimming fins consist of a foot part and the fin blade.
Also called pool fins or Swimming fins are shaped like a shoe, are worn barefoot and therefore only used for warm water. In the past (around 1960) mostly made of black or blue rubber and with a triangular blade, today it’s usually an elongated blade on colored plastic with streamline channels. This type of fin is often used in Scuba Diving.
Also called Scuba Diving Fins the foot section of heel fins is shaped like a slipper and offers enough space for heat-insulating neoprene shoes (booties) or the foot sections of a dry suit. The fins are held at the heel with an adjustable rubber band or a spring strap (special padded steel spring). These fins are used in cold water due to the insulation possibility of the foot by Neoprene shoes but can be used in warm water too. This type of fin is the most used in Scuba Diving.
Pretty much the same as the Open Heel Fins but the blade is split in the middle to increase speed. However The fins are very soft and with a lot of current they might not perform as good as normal open heel fins. This type of fin is often used in Scuba Diving. Split Fins are also available as full foot fins.
These are very similar to swimming fins, except they are far longer, and designed to work with slow stiff-legged kicks that conserves energy. The vast majority are made in the “full-foot” design with very rigid foot pockets, which serves to reduce weight and maximize power transfer from the leg into the fin. Freediving fins are commonly made of plastic, but are also often made from materials such as fiberglass and carbon fiber.
This type of fin is rarely used in Scuba Diving.
A mono fin is typically used in fin-swimming and free-diving. It consists of a single surface attached to foot pockets for both the free-diver’s feet. Mono fins can be made of glass fiber or carbon fiber. The diver’s muscle power and swimming style, and the type of activity the mono fin is used for, determine the choice of size, stiffness, and materials.
This type of fin is not used in Scuba Diving.
Furthermore, a distinction can be made between floating fins and sinking fins that are heavier than water.
Sometimes it makes sense to buy 2 different kind of fins for diving at home and on vacation. Thinking of cold/warm water temperatures, weight of the fin.
The first question you have to ask yourself is in what water temperature are you mostly diving?! based on that you should make your choice.
This type of fins are the most common ones for Divers and Snorkelers
The important parts of the Open Heel Fins are the hardness and length of the blade. The foot pocket as well as the heel strap.
As a beginner you don’t want to have a to stiff and long blade as it can give you cramps in the water. But they shouldn’t be too soft either otherwise you don’t have the propulsion you need to go against a strong current.
The Blade should be have Thrust Channels which directs water off the tip of the blade for improved power and efficiency.
The foot pocket should fit nicely to reduce water resistance and parachute effect and to increase efficiency.
Heel straps can be made from rubber or stainless steel spring.
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
TUSA SF-22 Solla Fin
Number #10 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Cressi Pro Light Open Heel Diving Fin
Number #9 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Mares Excel Plus
Number #8 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Cressi Powerful Kick
Number #7 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Scuba Pro Jet Fins
Number #6 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Mares X-Stream
Number #5 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Mares Volo Power
Number #4 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Mares Avanti Quattro Plus
Number #3 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Danoensit Professional Fins
Number #2 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
Scubapro Seawing Nova
Number #1 of my Top 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins
This was my list of the 10 Best Scuba Diving Fins 2020! I hope you enjoyed it and if you did so and don’t want miss any of my next Equipment guides sign up for the Newsletter here.
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Here is a picture of a Manta ray which really do need protection. Some facts about manta rays.Each human has a unique fingerprint that can be used to identify them. Manta rays can be identified because each does have a unique spot pattern on their belly!Mantas give birth to a single pup at a time, after a 12.5 months gestation period. Pups are independent from birth.
All income goes towards our Marine Life Conservation Projects!
Have a look at our other merchandise!
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
อีกวิธีหนึ่งที่จะช่วยเราได้คือการบริจาคของคุณหรือซื้อสินค้าของเรา รายได้ทั้งหมดจากสินค้าที่ขายจะมอบให้กับโครงการอนุรักษ์สิ่งมีชีวิตในทะเลของเรา
คุณสนใจดำน้ำลึกไหม? มาร่วมกับเราที่Poseidon Dive Center และทำหลักสูตรดำน้ำหรือเข้าร่วมFunDive ในฐานะนักดำน้ำที่มีใบอนุญาตรับการรับรอง
All income goes towards our Marine Life Conservation Projects!
“We live in such abundance that we don’t see and recognize it anymore! So much food, water, electric…..etc. all the time.“
— Daniel Sasse
Have a look at our other merchandise!
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
We successfully removed the huge abandoned fishing net from a reef on Koh Haa at Ao Nang local islands today!
It was at least 250kg and 100 m long by 20m wide. The green cotton nets are very hard to remove from the corals they get strongly entangled into branching corals also because it just doesn’t rip. We use scissors to cut them out of the branching corals but it’s a monumental slow work. 6 divers working for 4h. So 24h work in total. Thank you very much to the Mu Koh Phi Phi Marine National Park staff which also came and helped us removing the net. Also big thanks to Ryan Gary Brent and Daryl.
Removing abandoned fishing net from a reef at the Local Islands Ao Nang marine national park.
Fishes can easily get protection on a reef inside Corals where the net isn’t reaching them however if the net gets entangled into the branching and whip corals of a reef and the fisherman isn’t able to pull it up again mostly they cut it off on the surface and abandon it due it’s cheaper to buy a new one.
Unfortunately then the reef is left with wide spread in Corals entangled abandoned fishing net. Fish Corals and other Marine life can post entangle into it and die of choking or starving to death. That’s why it’s so important to remove the abandon net. Poseidon Dive Center does a lot of Marine Life Conservation Ao Nang Krabi. In fact we are the only Dive Center who does Marine Life Conservation work in Ao Nang Krabi.
Contact us for more information
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.
Scuba Diving incentive travel to Thailand is a great way to motivate and reward your valuable employees. Participating companies say the return on investment shows up in the business results. A motivated team achieves higher targets, which in turn generates greater profits. Ever thought of sending your best employees to a team-building event?
Interested to join us as a Marine Life Conservation Volunteer?
Check it out here
Another way to help us is with your donation or buy one of our merchandise items. All income from the Items sold goes to our Marine Life Conservation Projects.
Are you interested in Scuba Diving? Come Join us at Poseidon Dive Center and do a Dive Course or Join us for a FunDive as a certified Diver.